Tips and tricks for THE NOSE route

I've found that it is pretty easy to do The Nose route in 24 roped pitches.( Supertopo has it as 32) This makes it easy for calculating ROUGHLY how well you are doing attemping NIAD.(Nose In A Day)- Simply findout how much time you are taking per pitch and multiply by 24. TA DA! you'll see if you can make it in under 24 hours. Caveat- if you take one hour per pitch for the first 8 pitches it is UNlikely that you can maintain one hour a pitch for the following 16 pitches. Another mark to note is that if your NIAD time is between 3 and 16 hours, then at Sickle ledge you are aproximately 1/10th the way up the route - time wise, ( yet this is 1/6 the way given it's 4 of 24 pitches). IE: If you climb to Sickle ledge in one hour, you can probably do NIAD in ten hours.

For the best beta, of course, get my multi-media CD pack on "climbing the Nose easier/faster"