Speed Climbing News

June 6th 2018 - New Nose Record: 1:58:07 by: Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold

May 2018 - New Nose Record: 2:01:50  by: Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell

May 2018 - New Nose Record: 2:10:15 by: Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold

2017 - New Nose record: 2:19:44 by: Jim Reynolds and Brad Gobright)

May 25th 2017 Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold set a speed record on Free Rider at 5:35.

September 2016 the book On The Nose hits the street. On The Nose Book cover

Early August 2016  Miranda Oakley became the first women to solo The Nose of El Capitan in a single day. (one of four women to solo the route. - Jacki, Jess, Chantel, and Miranda)She snuck in at just under 22 hours. Way to go Miranda! more here

September 2015 I climbed The Nose for my 100th time with Fiona Thornewell and Jayme Moye. We did it in classic big wall camping style over four days. more here.

October 17th 2014,  Quinn Brett and Libby Sauter do the first time link up of two El Cap routes by a woman team. The Nose and Lurking Fear!http://www.climbing.com/news/first-time-two-el-cap-routes-in-a-day-for-womens-team/#comment-661614

July 13th I climbed The Triple Direct in 17 hours and 29 minutes by myself. - Hans. more details

June 9th Jes Meiris broke the existing women's Nose solo record. by 3 days. She climbed the route in 27 hours! Jes on FB.

June 8th David Allfrey and Alex Honnold ended 7 days of climbing El Capitan. They climbed one El Cap route each day. here's the synopsis: NJTP 12:24 Speed record TTrip 9:28 Speed Record Eagles Way 7:56 (Speed Record) Nose 5.16 Lurking Fear 5:05 Zodiac (Free Start) 5:05 3D 5:15 (speed record)

May 18th 2014 Hans climbed The Naked Edge in Eldorado Canyon Onsight in a record time of 3 hours and 13 minutes?

November 6th 2013 Cheyne Limpe became the second person to climb The Salathe in a day solo! He also set the record, beating Steve Schneider's 1992 - 22+ hour ascent by over an hour, with a time of 20 hours and 6 minutes.


Oldest person to do NIAD, (Nose In A Day) was Tuesday October 1st! Eric Perlman 63 years old. His partner was 51 year old Peter Mayfield.

Late September 2013 Mayan Smith-Gobat and Sean Leary set he F/M Nose Speed record at 3:28.

On March 14th Alex Honnold soloed: Moonlight 89 minutes(record),   Monkey Finger 65 minutes  Shunes Buttress,   53 minutes   CTC 12 hours

On March 11th Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold climbed In A Day, all free the following: Shear lunacy 13b, moonlight buttress 12d, touchstone 13b, spaceshot 13A more: here

On March 9th David Gealy and  Jim Reynolds climbed The Nose in 17.5 hours. We think this is the youngest combined age NIAD on record. both were 19

Sept and October saw a bunch of speed records set:

-New Women's Nose Record by Mayan Smith-Gobat and Chantel Astorga on Sept 23rd in a time of 7:26. They also were the first all women team to do the HD/EC linkup.

-New Record on South Face of the Column by Sean Leary and Alex Honnold. 53 minutes

-New Record on The West Face of Leaning Tower by Sean and Alex. 1:16

New Record on Wet Denim Day Dream by Dave and Alex. 2:55

-New Record on Lunar Eclipse by Dave Allfrey and Alex Honnold. 11:23


August: Katie Bono nailed the Rainer speed record. http://thegoat.backcountry.com/2012/08/01/new-womens-speed-record-on-rainier/

NEW NOSE RECORD!  June 17th. Alex Honnold and Hans Florine climbed The route in 2:23:46.

June 10th New Woman's Nose Record! Jess Meiris and Quinn Brett climb it in 10:19


June 5th Alex Honnold climbed, by himself, Mt Waltkins, was reported 2/3rds the way up The Nose at 2am on the 6th, and was supposed to head to climb The RNWF on Half Dome. THE TRIPLE link up SOLO in 24 hours! by the time you read this he will probably be done.

May 19th Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell climb Watkins, El Cap, and Half Dome FREE in 21 hours 15 minutes!

May 17th Bill Wright and Hans Florine climbed 100 pitches in Eldo in under 16 hours CTC.

More on those here:  

May 16th Jason Wells and Stefan Griebel set an amazing speed  
record for climbing and descending the classic Naked Edge (5.11).They  
broke the existing record of 1 hour 13 minutes from Bridge to Bridge,  
BTB, by 25 minutes.

Follow Alex Honnold and Hans road to getting The Nose speed record:


September 16th  2011 Libby Sauter and Chantel Astorga set the women's speed record on the Nose route. Congrats Chantel and Libby! 10 hours and 40 minutes.

Fall 2011 saw an attempt at The Nose Record by Alex Honnold and Hans Florine. Their best time was 3:37:30, just 45 seconds slower than the record set November 2010.

2011 is here, is your New Years resolution to "Climb with Hans?"

I am kicking my 2011 off as per below:

I am offering a day of climbing, (in 2011), to anyone who donates
$2,000, in my and their name, to any of the seven organizations listed
below. You must commit and actually make payment to the
organization by end of the day Friday January 14th 2011.   

(Alphabetic order)
The Access Fund
The Ayn Rand Institute
Big City Mountaineers
Yobasecamp / Sharma Fund
The Yosemite Institute
LASF Lafayette Arts & Science Foundation
The Yosemite Conservancy

November 6th - NEW NOSE RECORD! Sean Leary and Dean Potter 2:36:45 ! word has it they will go to do better. Great job guys!

November 2010- Ammon McNeely reported to me a few weeks ago that he had completed his 50th different route on El Capitan! He's done more than 65 ascents as well. See more climber's all time ascent tallies here. I hear Sean and Dean are taking goes at The Nose record! I hope they tell us all when they go for a run. - I want to watch!

FALL 2010 - NOT NORMAL weather. We had the coldest summer on record and tha past week it's been pretty warm. Could be a great "Indian Summer" for climbing THIS FALL. Get to Yosemite and send me some reports of your climbing. - Hans

HATE dealing with camping scene or NO CAMPING AVAILABLE? I've got some dates open at my home. www.hansbasecamp.com

Sean Leary and Alex Honnold climbed El Cap Three times in a day. - around July 5th 2010 or so?  Nose-4:17 Salathe-6:00? and Lurking Fear-? Fricken awesome!

Alex Honnold became the third person to do THE LINK UP on June 22nd. he climbed Half Dome in the morning in 2 hours and 9 minutes and climbed The Nose in an astounding 5 hours and 49 minutes! he took a 30 ft piece of rope on half dome and a 60 meter cord on El Cap. he only used the cord on El Cap for the aid section just below the boot flake, the king swing, and the great roof. mostly free soloing and shuttling gear for the rest of it. Way to go Alex!

Why don't YOU put in a big climbing mileage day? My download is updated and easy to get: here

Alex Honnold and Ueli Steck Took goes at the Nose Record in early June!  Unfortunately their efforts have stopped as Ueli took aproximately a 50 ft leader fall and was shaken up with some scraps and bruiese, but all mendable. see www.supertopo.com or mountainhardware.com for news.

Hans is speaking at the Pleasanton Library July 22nd.

Follow Hans on Twitter.

Colin Haley and Dave Turner did THE link-up!  more here

Hans and Yuji smoked The Nose in 2:37:05 - October 12, 2008. Get an archival quality photo of the ascent: more.

Stay at Hans's Home!


YOU can climb The NOSE!

You can still read about what happened when we broke the record in July.


October 12: We did it! 2:37:05. New Record! Thanks to the four parties that let us go by. Especially Hanah and Hilde and also Paul, Travis, John, Polish party and everyone else and our loving wives.


October 8: 2:48:23. We were 6 minutes faster than our record run from July 2nd when we made it to Dolt Tower in 48 minutes! Somehow a few tiny rope snags and roughness on the top half cost us some 11 minutes. Looks like all the marbles are in Sunday's basket.

October 5: Yuji and Hans climbed the Nose in 3:38 Sunday afternoon, passing five parties and topping out under headlamp. Yuji's foot is healing nicely from his fall early last week. Big Thank you to Dr Jeffrey of Modesto for working on Yuji, and creating faster healing Sunday morning. We are optimistic about a record run on Wednesday the 8th and Sunday the 12th.

October 2nd: Yuji is headed into the Bay Area to do a little gym climbing with Hans while giving his ankle a little rest. He was walking normally today. No noticeable limp.

October 1st: CRASH! Yuji takes a 20 meter fall on "FreeStone" and bruises his heel. Xray reveals no breaks or fractures. Holding pattern.......

September 29th: Yuji and Hans climb the Nose in 4:07

September 26th: Yuji and Steve Schneider climb up the Nose in around 7 hours.

September 20 and 21: Yuji and Hans go to Utah High Adventure Mountain Film Festival and accept LifeClimb Achievement Award.

September 18th: Yuji arrives from Japan.

If you see him in person, ask Hans about this.

Hans would like to THANK:

Hans' top secret, elite athlete recovery training.

Stay at HANS's HOME!


audio-Sierra Trading

Yuji and Hans near the top


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Tom Evans does the El Cap Report on Supertopo Forums (unfortunately it can take a bit of hunting to find the current report).



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