Speed Climbing News

Sean Leary and Alex Honnold climbed El Cap Three times in a day. - around July 5th 2010 or so?  Nose-4:17 Salathe-6:00? and Lurking Fear-? Fricken awesome!

Alex Honnold became the third person to do THE LINK UP on June 22nd. he climbed Half Dome in the morning in 2 hours and 9 minutes and climbed The Nose in an astounding 5 hours and 49 minutes! he took a 30 ft piece of rope on half dome and a 60 meter cord on El Cap. he only used the cord on El Cap for the aid section just below the boot flake, the king swing, and the great roof. mostly free soloing and shuttling gear for the rest of it. Way to go Alex!

Why don't YOU put in a big climbing mileage day? My download is updated and easy to get: here

Alex Honnold and Ueli Steck Took goes at the Nose Record in early June!  Unfortunately their efforts have stopped as Ueli took aproximately a 50 ft leader fall and was shaken up with some scraps and bruiese, but all mendable. see www.supertopo.com or mountainhardware.com for news.

Hans is speaking at the Pleasanton Library July 22nd.

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Colin Haley and Dave Turner did THE link-up!  more here

Hans and Yuji smoked The Nose in 2:37:05 - October 12, 2008. Get an archival quality photo of the ascent: more.

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YOU can climb The NOSE!

You can still read about what happened when we broke the record in July.

LATEST UPDATE

October 12: We did it! 2:37:05. New Record! Thanks to the four parties that let us go by. Especially Hanah and Hilde and also Paul, Travis, John, Polish party and everyone else and our loving wives.

PREVIOUS UPDATES

October 8: 2:48:23. We were 6 minutes faster than our record run from July 2nd when we made it to Dolt Tower in 48 minutes! Somehow a few tiny rope snags and roughness on the top half cost us some 11 minutes. Looks like all the marbles are in Sunday's basket.

October 5: Yuji and Hans climbed the Nose in 3:38 Sunday afternoon, passing five parties and topping out under headlamp. Yuji's foot is healing nicely from his fall early last week. Big Thank you to Dr Jeffrey of Modesto for working on Yuji, and creating faster healing Sunday morning. We are optimistic about a record run on Wednesday the 8th and Sunday the 12th.

October 2nd: Yuji is headed into the Bay Area to do a little gym climbing with Hans while giving his ankle a little rest. He was walking normally today. No noticeable limp.

October 1st: CRASH! Yuji takes a 20 meter fall on "FreeStone" and bruises his heel. Xray reveals no breaks or fractures. Holding pattern.......

September 29th: Yuji and Hans climb the Nose in 4:07

September 26th: Yuji and Steve Schneider climb up the Nose in around 7 hours.

September 20 and 21: Yuji and Hans go to Utah High Adventure Mountain Film Festival and accept LifeClimb Achievement Award.

September 18th: Yuji arrives from Japan.


If you see him in person, ask Hans about this.

Hans would like to THANK:

Hans' top secret, elite athlete recovery training.

Stay at HANS's HOME!


Podclimber-audio

audio-Sierra Trading

Yuji and Hans near the top


LINKS:

for the "normal" NOSEINADAY.COM

for the "normal" SPEEDCLIMB.COM

YUJI HIRAYAMA'S BLOG

THE HUBER'S SPEED RECORD,(CURRENT RECORD HOLDERS) HERE AND HERE.

A VERY BRIEF HISTORY OF THE NOSE SPEED ASCENTS

THE SPEEDCLIMB FORUM

Tom Evans does the El Cap Report on Supertopo Forums (unfortunately it can take a bit of hunting to find the current report).

 

 

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