El Capitan speed ascents! page updated: August 30, 2007

(-West to East -)   Click on picture above to scroll to routes in that area.  FOD-designates First One Day Ascent,

Copyright!- please do not reprint without permission!  Beta on Staying in Yosemite.

Findout which routes are hardest and easiest in Yosemite, and put in your two cents!

Mr Midwest

7:40 Jacqueline Florine, Steve Schneider and Hans Florine. July 2001

Mirage

20:02 Steve Gerberding, Dave Bengsten, and Al Swanson. 1995

West Face

1:56:16 Timmy O'Neill and Hans Florine. November 1999

5:56 Lisa Coleman-Puhvel and Hans Florine. October 1998, (Fastest Female/Male ascent)

8:16 Hans Florine - solo. June 2000 (two El Cap route in a day solo)

` ` ~~~~~~~~For the 2nd and beyond times of all routes go FHeartbreaks ~ for "non speed tales" go here!

Realm of the Flying Monkeys

~ 9:59 Peter Coward and Hans Florine. July 1999

Lurking Fear how it's timed...

3:04:54  Nick Fowler and Yuji Hirayama. May 2003

22:22 Lorna Illingworh and Holly Beck. July 2007 FFOD (First Female One Day)

9:20 Hans Florine - solo. June 2000 (two El Cap routes in a day solo)

12:00 Vera Schulte-Pelkum and Erik Roed.  June 2002. (Female/Male team)

West Buttress

13:42 Chandlee Harrell and Hans Florine. July 2000

20:08 Kevin Thaw - solo 9/96 FOD

For Your Eyes Only (aka Octopussy)

27:00 Steve Gerberding, John Harpole & Dave Bengston.  May 1993

Never Never Land

16:00:02 Chris McNamara and Ammon McNeeley. August 2004

Aquarian Wall

23+ Greg Murphy, Peter Coward, and Steve Schneider. FOD

Horse Chute

20hh:39 Chris McNamara and Ammon McNeeley. October 8th 2004. FOD

Dihedral Wall

14:06 Steve Gerberding and Hans Florine. September 2002 (hammerless) FOD

22:04 Mike Ousley and Chris McNamara, July 1999 (Lurking Fear finish)

Excalibur

39:01 Steve Schneider, Willie Benegas, and Andres Zeger. 1998

The Salathe

6:32 Jim Herson and Chandlee Harrell. July 1999 (free variation on pitch 24 and 32)

7:33 Dean Potter and Jose Pereyra. September 1998

27? Sue McDevitt and Nancy Feagin. June 1998

23? Steve Schneider - solo. 1992

12:30 Nancy Feagin and Hans Florine. 1992 ( Fastest Female/Male ascent)

16? Tommy Caldwell, redpoints/ - Free climbs in a day.

35 Yuji Hirayama. September 1997 (FFA - Fastest Free ascent, onsight!)

Son of Heart

29:24 Peter Coward, Steve Schneider, and Hans Florine. September 1993

Sunkist

19:24 Mark Melvin, Steve Schneider, and Hans Florine. July 99 FOD

Magic Mushroom

55:15  Kevin Jamarillo, Ammon McNeeley, and Ivo Ninov.  July 2005

Flight of the Albatross

24:04 Conrad Anker, Steve Gerberding & Dave Bengston. Early 90s

14:50 Kelly Simard, Brain McCray, and Hans Florine. July 2001.(did free blast then variation on  first 6 pitches)

The Shield

10:58! Cedar Wright and Chris McNamara. August 1999

4 days John Middendorf. 1984(solo)

Muir

19:56 Nils Davis and Brian McCray. June 2001  

Triple Direct

6:27 Chris MacNamara and Hans Florine. December 2005

Grape Race

~13:25 Chris McNamara and Jose Pereyra. June 1999

` ` ~~~~~~~~For the 2nd and beyond times of all routes go FHeartbreaks

The Nose ~ Tons of information about The Nose - how it's timed... - WE'LL guess how long YOU take to climb the Nose. NIAD list

2:43:33 Yuji Hirayama and Hans Florine. July 2008 

4 days & 7 hours 43 minutes Jacqueline Florine - solo.  June  2002

11:41 Hans Florine - solo. July 2005 report

11:00  Tommy Caldwell.October 2005 ( FFMA Fastest Free Male Ascent)  

23:+? Lynn Hill. 1994 ( FFFA - Fastest Free Female Ascent)

8:40 Lynn Hill and Hans Florine. July 1992( Fastest Female/Male ascent)

Tribal Rite

23:33 Steve Gerberding, Scott Stowe & Dave Bengston. March 1994 FOD

New Dawn

23:50 Benegas Bros.  mid 1990s

Wall of Early Morning Light

23:43 Ammon McNeeley and Brian McCray. September 2004 FOD

Mescalito

23:28 Dean Potter, Jose Pereyra, and Russ Mitrovich. October 1998 FOD

The Reticent Wall

34:57 Ivo Ninov, Ammon McNeely & Dean Potter. July 2006

PO Wall

33:02 Ammon McNeeley and Ivo Ninov.  May 2004

Wyoming Sheep Ranch

29:31 Eric George, Russell Metrovich, and Sean 'Stanley' Leary. October 99

NA Wall

9:36 Tim O'Neill and Miles Smart. Sept 14th 99

New Jersey Turn Pike

14:00:02  Ammon McNeely and Brian McCray. September 2002

Atlantic Ocean Wall

23:38  Ammon McNeely and Brian McCray, August 2004

Native son - "non speed ascent"

23:53 Ivo Ninov & Ammon McNeely. May 2006 FOD

25:06 Sean 'Stanley' Leary, Russell Metrovich, and Eric George. October 99

5 days? Miles Smart - solo.  2004?

Iron Hawk

30:42 Cedar Wright and Ammon McNeely.  May 2004

16 days Peter Zabrok- solo fall 1997

Scorched Earth

36:00? Scott Vinsic, Dan Oppenhiem & Aaron Jones - July, 2005 (variation on 10th pitch)

Aurora

23:55 Miles Smart and Brian McCray. July 1998 FOD

Tangerine Trip

10:24 Cedar Wright and Ammon McNeely. July 2002

15:53 Nick Fowler, solo. October 2002

Virginia

17:24 Ivo Ninov, Gabe and Ammon McNeeley.  July 2004

Lost in America

18:04 Brian McCray and Ammon McNeeley. August 2004

Kaos

27:50 Jim Haden, Sean Leary, Eric George. December 99

Zenyatta Mondatta

22:56 Kevin Jamarillo, Ivo Ninov, and Ammon McNeely. July 2005FOD

70:01 or 38:45?  Willie Benegas - solo 1997

Shortest Straw

17:52 Russ Metrovich, Eric George, and Brett Dodds. sept 99 FOD

3.5 days Ammon McNeely - solo 1999

Zodiac

2:32 Alex and Thomas Huber. June 2003

11:18  Nick Fowler. November 2002

3 days(one night)  YOUNGEST  EL CAP TEAM  Chris and Morgan McNamara, July 1995

Plastic Surgery Disaster

 21:37 Brian McCray and Ammon McNeely. June 2001 FOD

Get Whacked

12:49 Ammon McNeely and Brain McCray. June 2001

Lunar Eclipse

19:58 Ammon McNeely, Jose Pererya, and Chongo. June 2001

10 days Peter Zabrok - September 2002

Born Under a Bad Sign

22:22 Chris Van Luevan, Erik Waldo Walden, and Ammon McNeely. October 2002 FOD

Bad Seed

19:12 Wayne Wiloughby, Brian McCray, and Hans Florine. September 1998. FIRST ONE DAY ASCENT OF EL CAPITAN by a handicap person, WW!

Eagles way

9:08  Brian McCray and Ammon McNeeley.  August 2004

19:05 Roxana Brock and Brian McCray. August 1998( Fastest Female/Male ascent)

23:51 Alek Berg. solol. July 2005

Pressure Cooker

23:41 Ammon McNeeley and Ivo Ninov;. September 2004 FOD

Water Fall Route

18:28 Peter Coward, Steve Schneider, and Hans Florine. October 1997 FOD?

Chinese Water Torture

17:15 Lance Allred, Steve Schneider & Scott Stowe

Dark Star

20:09 Scott Cosgrove, Steve Gerberding, and Al Swanson. July 2002 FOD

East Buttress

2:05 CTC Jason Singer. June 2001

43 minutes on route, 2:09 -CTC Hans Florine, solo. July 2000

2:and change?CTC! Jason "Singer" Smith and Miles Smart. fall 99

1:30 Abby Watkins and Hans Florine. Fall 97 ( CTC 3 hours even)

` ` ~~~~~~~~For the 2nd and beyond times of all routes go FHeartbreaks

Findout which routes are hardest and easiest in Yosemite, and put in your two cents!

to:    buy my book:      

Copyright - republishing of any of the material on this page, or other Speedclimb.com's pages, is not allowed without permission from Hans.