El Capitan speed ascents! page updated: July 21, 2014

(-West to East -)   Click on picture above to scroll to routes in that area.

 FOD-designates First One Day Ascent,

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 Beta on Staying in Yosemite.

Findout which routes are hardest and easiest in Yosemite, and put in your two cents!

Mr Midwest

7:40 Jacqueline Florine, Steve Schneider and Hans Florine. July 2001


20:02 Steve Gerberding, Dave Bengsten, and Al Swanson. 1995

West Face

1:56:16 Timmy O'Neill and Hans Florine. November 1999

5:56 Lisa Coleman-Puhvel and Hans Florine. October 1998, (Fastest Female/Male ascent)

8:16 Hans Florine - solo. June 2000 (two El Cap route in a day solo)

` ` ~~~~~~~~For the 2nd and beyond times of all routes go FHeartbreaks ~ for "non speed tales" go here!

Realm of the Flying Monkeys

~ 9:59 Peter Coward and Hans Florine. July 1999

Lurking Fear how it's timed...

3:04:54  Nick Fowler and Yuji Hirayama. May 2003

13:33  Chantel Astorga and Libby Sauter. July 2010 (fastest all female team)

22:22 Lorna Illingworh and Holly Beck. July 2007 FFOD (First Female One Day)

9:20 Hans Florine - solo. June 2000 (two El Cap routes in a day solo)

12:00 Vera Schulte-Pelkum and Erik Roed.  June 2002. (Female/Male team)


16:08 David AllFrey, Cheyne Lempe, and Scott Deputy. September 22 2013FOD

West Buttress

7:01 David AllFrey and Alex Honnold.. April 2013

20:08 Kevin Thaw - solo 9/96 FOD

For Your Eyes Only (aka Octopussy)

27:00 Steve Gerberding, John Harpole & Dave Bengston.  May 1993

Never Never Land

16:00:02 Chris McNamara and Ammon McNeeley. August 2004

Aquarian Wall

23+ Greg Murphy, Peter Coward, and Steve Schneider. FOD

Horse Chute

20hh:39 Chris McNamara and Ammon McNeeley. October 8th 2004. FOD

Dihedral Wall

14:06 Steve Gerberding and Hans Florine. September 2002 (hammerless) FOD

22:04 Mike Ousley and Chris McNamara, July 1999 (Lurking Fear finish)


39:01 Steve Schneider, Willie Benegas, and Andres Zeger. 1998

The Salathe

4:55 Sean Leary and Alex Honnold. May 2012? (free variation on pitch 24 and 32)

7:33 Dean Potter and Jose Pereyra. September 1998

27? Sue McDevitt and Nancy Feagin. June 1998

23? Steve Schneider - solo. 1992

12:30 Nancy Feagin and Hans Florine. 1992 ( Fastest Female/Male ascent)

16? Tommy Caldwell, redpoints/ - Free climbs in a day.

35 Yuji Hirayama. September 1997 (FFA - Fastest Free ascent, onsight!)

Son of Heart

29:24 Peter Coward, Steve Schneider, and Hans Florine. September 1993


19:24 Mark Melvin, Steve Schneider, and Hans Florine. July 99 FOD

Magic Mushroom

55:15  Kevin Jamarillo, Ammon McNeeley, and Ivo Ninov.  July 2005

Flight of the Albatross

24:04 Conrad Anker, Steve Gerberding & Dave Bengston. Early 90s

14:50 Kelly Simard, Brain McCray, and Hans Florine. July 2001.(did free blast then variation on  first 6 pitches)

The Shield

10:58! Cedar Wright and Chris McNamara. August 1999

4 days John Middendorf. 1984(solo)


19:56 Nils Davis and Brian McCray. June 2001  

Triple Direct

5:15 David AllFrey and Alex Honnold. June 2014. (part of 7 EC routes in 7 days)

Grape Race

~8:21 Erik Sloan and Roger Putnam. August 2014

` ` ~~~~~~~~For the 2nd and beyond times of all routes go FHeartbreaks

The Nose ~ Tons of information about The Nose - how it's timed... NIAD list

2:23:46 Alex Honnold and Hans Florine. June 2012 

4:43 Libby Sauter and Mayan Smith-Gorbat, October 31 2014

27:20 Jes Meiris- solo.  June 7  2014

5:50 Alex Honnold - solo. July 2010

11:00  Tommy Caldwell.October 2005 ( FFMA Fastest Free Male Ascent)  

23:+? Lynn Hill. 1994 ( FFFA - Fastest Free Female Ascent)

4:29  Mayan Smith-Gorbat and Sean Leary. M/F September 2012

Tribal Rite

19:48 Skiy De Tray, Kevin Prince, David Allfrey. October 2011 

23:33 Steve Gerberding, Scott Stowe & Dave Bengston. March 1994 FOD

New Dawn

23:50 Benegas Bros.  mid 1990s

Wall of Early Morning Light

23:43 Ammon McNeeley and Brian McCray. September 2004 FOD

Ideas for Camping/Lodging around Yosemite


23:28 Dean Potter, Jose Pereyra, and Russ Mitrovich. October 1998 FOD

The Reticent Wall

34:57 Ivo Ninov, Ammon McNeely & Dean Potter. July 2006

PO Wall

33:02 Ammon McNeeley and Ivo Ninov.  May 2004

Wyoming Sheep Ranch

29:31 Eric George, Russell Metrovich, and Sean 'Stanley' Leary. October 99

On The Waterfront

17:07 Skyalr Detray & Ammon McNeely. July 2009 FOD

NA Wall

9:36 Tim O'Neill and Miles Smart. Sept 14th 99

New Jersey Turn Pike

12:24:02  David AllFrey and Alex Honnold. June 2014. (part of 7 EC routes in 7 days)

Atlantic Ocean Wall

23:38  Ammon McNeely and Brian McCray, August 2004

Native son - "non speed ascent"

23:53 Ivo Ninov & Ammon McNeely. May 2006 FOD

25:06 Sean 'Stanley' Leary, Russell Metrovich, and Eric George. October 99

5 days? Miles Smart - solo.  2004?

Iron Hawk

30:42 Cedar Wright and Ammon McNeely.  May 2004

16 days Peter Zabrok- solo fall 1997

Scorched Earth

22:28 Dave Allfrey, Ammon McNeely, and Skiy Detray. October 2011


23:55 Miles Smart and Brian McCray. July 1998 FOD

Tangerine Trip

9:28 David AllFrey and Alex Honnold. June 2014. (part of 7 EC routes in 7 days)

15:53 Nick Fowler, solo. October 2002


13:58 David Allfrey, Scott Deputy August 2012

Lost in America

18:04 Brian McCray and Ammon McNeeley. August 2004

Lost World

23:29 - Ivo Ninov & Ammon McNeely. July 2009 FOD


27:50 Jim Haden, Sean Leary, Eric George. December 99

Zenyatta Mondatta

22:56 Kevin Jamarillo, Ivo Ninov, and Ammon McNeely. July 2005FOD

70:01 or 38:45?  Willie Benegas - solo 1997

Shortest Straw

12:20 David Allfrey, Skiy Detray, Cheyne Lempe in October2012 FOD

3.5 days Ammon McNeely - solo 1999


2:32 Alex and Thomas Huber. June 2003

12:29  female/male Erica Kutcher and Pierre Olsson. 2004

11:18  Nick Fowler. November 2002

3 days(one night)  YOUNGEST  EL CAP TEAM  Chris and Morgan McNamara, July 1995

Plastic Surgery Disaster

 21:37 Brian McCray and Ammon McNeely. June 2001 FOD

Get Whacked

12:49 Ammon McNeely and Brain McCray. June 2001

Lunar Eclipse

11:22 Dave Allfrey and Alex Honnold. September 2012

10 days Peter Zabrok - September 2002

Born Under a Bad Sign

22:22 Chris Van Luevan, Erik Waldo Walden, and Ammon McNeely. October 2002 FOD

Bad Seed

19:12 Wayne Wiloughby, Brian McCray, and Hans Florine. September 1998. FIRST ONE DAY ASCENT OF EL CAPITAN by a handicap person, WW!

Eagles way

7:56  David AllFrey and Alex Honnold. June 2014. (part of 7 EC routes in 7 days)

19:05 Roxana Brock and Brian McCray. August 1998( Fastest Female/Male ascent)

23:51 Alek Berg. solol. July 2005

Pressure Cooker

23:41 Ammon McNeeley and Ivo Ninov;. September 2004 FOD

Water Fall Route

18:28 Peter Coward, Steve Schneider, and Hans Florine. October 1997 FOD?

Chinese Water Torture

17:15 Lance Allred, Steve Schneider & Scott Stowe

Dark Star

20:09 Scott Cosgrove, Steve Gerberding, and Al Swanson. July 2002 FOD

East Buttress

2:05 CTC Jason Singer. June 2001

43 minutes on route, 2:09 -CTC Hans Florine, solo. July 2000

2:and change?CTC! Jason "Singer" Smith and Miles Smart. fall 99

1:30 Abby Watkins and Hans Florine. Fall 97 ( CTC 3 hours even)

` ` ~~~~~~~~For the 2nd and beyond times of all routes go FHeartbreaks

Findout which routes are hardest and easiest in Yosemite, and put in your two cents!

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