|Hi all,||Thursday, September 11, 2003|
here's what I'm tackling next: http://speedclimb.com/14ers/
Yesterday, September 29th 2002, Yuji Hirayama and I
climbed The Nose on El Capitan, we set the record at
2 hours, 48 minutes, and 55 seconds. Terribly fun and
rewarding. My favoriteroute in the world. Covering so much beautiful
granite in a pleasant morning was paradise.
Yuji led the whole route. We simulclimbed about
2450 ft and I jugged while Yuji short-fixed/self-belayed for about 500 ft. Except
for our friends, Bill and Lou on the first pitch
taking pictures, we didn't have to pass any parties on route.
We exchanged gear at the 6th pitch, (leaving
sickle), at the 17th pitch,( King swing), at the
21st pitch, (great roof), at the 25th and 27th
pitch, (camp 5 and 6).
We started at 7:15 am and topped out at 10:03 am.
It was a bit cold at the start, my hands barely
staying warm enough to feel the pin scars on the
first three pitches. After that it was perfect
temperatures. I was gasping for breath as we
entered into the Stove Legs at the 7th pitch.
Luckily I had a minute rest there as I waited for
Yuji to get more than two pieces between us. From
there up I managed to keep from going anarobic, til
the last 100 ft.- where I pushed hard knowing I
could colapse on top,- which I did.
We carried one #3 camalot, one #2, two #1s, one.75,
one .5, and doubles below that. 6 nuts, one cam
hook, one etrier, 17 quick draws, 18 free biners, 6
long runners, one Powergel each, one liter water
each, one 10Oz can UpTime drink, a Gri gri, a couple
lockers, Petzl jugs, set of JJs,(jugging loops),
shorts, one dress shirt, one t-shirt.
BOY IT WAS FUN! and rewarding!
pictures: http://www.speedclimb.com/webstratg.jpg ,
http://www.speedclimb.com/webstratg2.jpg , and
Bill Wright tells the story.
a brief history of The Nose below.
---know anyone who wants to be on the "speedclimb e-news list" have them email me.
1958 - first ascent took 12 days on the final push. (48 days of work over 18 months)
1960 - second ascent took 7 days,(6 nights)
1963 - third ascent took 3.5 days.
1975 - a one day ascent was made.
1984 - the route was done in under 10 hours.
1989 - first one day solo ascent was made.
1990 - 8:06 became the record then 6:40
1991 - 6:01 became the record then 4:48
1992 - 4:22 became the record.
2001 - 3:59:35 became the record, then 3:57:27, then 3:24:20
I did my 100th ascent of El Cap!